MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART

Although cinnamon is one of the most common spices, not all varieties of cinnamon are created equal. Cinnamon varies in taste and intensity, depending on how old it is and where it was grown. This recipe calls for 1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon, but you can adjust it up or down to suit your own taste and the strength of the cinnamon you have on hand. I prefer Vietnamese cinnamon, available from Penzeys in Muskego, Wisconsin (414-574-0277). From THE ULTIMATE ICE CREAM BOOK.

2/3 cup sugar
2 large egg yolks
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 bay leaf
1 1/2 cups milk
1 1/2 cups light cream

In a medium mixing bowl, beat the sugar into the eggs until thickened and pale yellow. Beat in the cornstarch. Set aside.
 
Combine the cinnamon, bay leaf, and milk in a heavy medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over low heat. Turn off the heat, cover, and let steep for 10 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and slowly beat the hot milk into the eggs and sugar. Pour the entire mixture back into the pan and place over low heat. Stir constantly with a whisk or wooden spoon until the custard thickens slightly. Be careful not to let the mixture boil or the eggs will scramble. Remove from the heat and pour the warm cinnamon custard through a strainer into a large, clean bowl. Allow the custard to cool slightly, then stir in the cream. Cover and refrigerate until cold or overnight.

Stir the chilled custard, then freeze in 1 or 2 batches in your ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions. When finished, the ice cream will be soft but ready to eat. For firmer ice cream, transfer to a freezer-safe container and freeze at least 2 hours.