There should be a culinary law that every freezer have at least one quart of this basic tomato sauce ready to defrost and turn into dinner. This recipe makes two quarts, but if you have a big enough pot and freezer, go ahead and double or even triple the recipe. You won't regret it. From Art Smith.

3 tablespoons olive oil
large onion, chopped
medium carrot, cut into 1/2-inch dice
medium celery rib, cut into 1/2-inch dice
4 garlic cloves, chopped
One 28-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice
One 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes
One 15-ounce can tomato sauce
1 tablespoon dried Italian herbs, or 1 teaspoon each dried basil, oregano, and rosemary
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery, and cook, stirring often, until the onion is golden, about 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it gives off its fragrance, about 1 minute.

Stir in the diced tomatoes with their juice, the crushed tomatoes, tomato sauce, herbs, bay leaf, and red pepper flakes. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered and stirring often, until the sauce has reduced slightly, about 1 hour.

Let cool completely. Transfer to two 1-quart airtight containers. (The sauce can be made, covered, and refrigerated up to 3 days ahead, or frozen for up to 3 months. Before using frozen marinara sauce, thaw in a microwave oven at 50 percent power.)

MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS