From Art Smith's KITCHEN LIFE. For an especially rich soup with lots of meaty flavor, roast the chicken first. This is an interesting twist on the traditional method where the chicken is first browned in the pot, if at all, and then cooked in the liquid. Dark-meat chicken thighs stand up to the roasting and simmering without drying out, something that cannot be said of chicken breasts. They are full of good flavor and cost less, too.

6 chicken thighs with skin and bone (about 2 1/3 pounds)
1 medium onion, chopped
1 medium carrot, cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 medium celery rib with leaves, leaves
chopped and rib cut into 1/2-inch dice
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1 small bay leaf
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh parsley for garnish

Position a rack in the top third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the chicken thighs in a roasting pan.

Roast the chicken until the skin is golden brown, about 30 minutes. Pour off and discard all but 2 tablespoons of fat. Scatter the onion, carrot, and celery around the chicken and stir to coat with the fat in the pan. Return to the oven and roast, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables soften, about 15 minutes.

Transfer the chicken and vegetables to a large saucepan. Place the roasting pan over medium heat and heat until sizzling. Add 1 cup water to the pan. Scrape up the browned bits in the pan with a wooden spatula and pour the liquid into the saucepan. Add enough cold water to barely cover the chicken, about 1 1/2 quarts. Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Add the thyme and bay leaf. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

Reduce the heat to low and partially cover the pot. Simmer for 30 minutes. Remove the chicken and transfer to a cutting board. Keep the soup simmering. Cool the chicken until easy to handle, about 20 minutes. Discard the skin and bones, and cut the meat into bite-sized pieces. Return the meat to the soup.

Remove the soup from the heat and let stand for 5 minutes. Skim off any fat on the surface and discard the bay leaf. Season the soup again with salt and pepper. Serve hot, sprinkling each serving with parsley.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS