Adapted from Art Smith. Fish tacos have become a specialty of many a southern California restaurant, and some versions are pretty fancy. I make them here the way they were originally conceived-simple and tasty, with chunks of cod served on corn tortillas and offset with tangy slaw. It's easiest to serve the tortillas, fish, and slaw in separate containers at the table, allowing each person to make his or her own taco.

3 tablespoons mayonnaise
Grated zest and juice of 1 lime
1 teaspoon minced chipotle with adobo sauce
3 cups (half of a 16-ounce bag) coleslaw mix
2 scallions, white and green parts, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, optional
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound cod fillets, cut into 6 equal portions
1 teaspoon chili powder
Salt to taste
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 avocado, thinly sliced
12 corn tortillas, heated

To make the slaw, mix the mayonnaise and lime zest and juice, and chipotle with adobo sauce in a medium
bowl. Add the coleslaw mix, scallions, and cilantro, if using, and mix well. Season with salt and pepper. Let stand while making the fish for the tacos.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat until the oil is hot but not smoking. Season the cod all over with the chili powder and then the salt. Place the flour in a small bowl. Coat each piece of cod in the flour, shaking off the excess. Add to the skillet and cook, turning once, until golden brown, about 6 minutes. Transfer the cod to a plate.

Place the tortillas in a napkin -lined basket and close the napkin to keep the tortillas warm. Serve the tortillas, fish, and lime slaw at the table. To make each taco, place 2 tortillas, slightly overlapping, on the plate. (The juicy filling will likely soak through a single tortilla, so a double layer of tortillas is really necessary.) Top with 1 piece of fish and break it up with a fork. Top with a spoonful of the lime slaw, a few avocado slices, and roll up the taco.

MAKES 6 TACOS