From Art Smith. Vinaigrette is perhaps the easiest sauce of all for fish fillets, and it needs no cooking. Because its flavor will be especially important to the end results, use a good extra-virgin olive oil. Many gourmet shops have tasting areas set up so you can compare and choose one you like. Serve the fish with some steamed new potatoes and green beans. The lemony olive vinaigrette will enhance the side dishes, too.

GREEN OLIVE VINAIGRETTE
Grated zest of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 small garlic clove, crushed through a press
1/8 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes
1/3 cup olive oil, preferably high-quality extra-virgin
1/3 cup chopped pimiento-stuffed olives
Salt to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
Four 6- to 7-ounce cod fillets
Salt and freshly ground pepper

To make the vinaigrette, whisk the lemon zest and juice with the garlic and red pepper in a small bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil. Stir in the olives. Season with salt. Let stand while cooking the fillets.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat until the oil is hot but not smoking. Season the fillets with salt and pepper. Add to the skillet and cook until the undersides are golden, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook until the other sides are golden and the fish looks opaque when pierced in the center with the tip of a knife, about 3 minutes more. Transfer each fish fillet to a dinner plate.

Spoon an equal amount of olives and vinaigrette over each fish fillet and serve immediately.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS