MAKES TWO 8'12-BY-4'/2-INCH LOAVES OR SIX 6-BY-2'/4-INCH MINILOAVES.

From Martha Stewart's Baking Handbook. If you use mini-loaf pans, reduce the baking time to forty-five minutes. This bread is delightful as soon as it cools, but it's even better the next day, when the flavors have had a chance to develop.

Unsalted butter, room temperature, for pans
3 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups canned pumpkin puree
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup packed dark-brown sugar
4 large eggs
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 2/3 cups buttermilk
1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips (optional, but absolutely necessary in MY book)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Coat two 8 1/2-by-4 1/2-inch loaf pans with butter; set aside.  In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, and salt; set mixture aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the pumpkin puree and both sugars; mix on medium speed until well combined, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the eggs and oil; mix until incorporated, about 2 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl. With mixer on low, add the flour mixture in two batches, alternating with the buttermilk and beginning and ending with the flour, until just combined. Gently stir in chocolate chips, if using.

Divide the batter between the prepared pans; smooth the tops with an offset spatula. Place the pans on a baking sheet. Bake, rotating the sheet halfway through, until a cake tester inserted in the centers comes out clean, 55 to 60 minutes. Transfer pans to a wire rack to cool 10 minutes. Remove loaves from pans and cool completely. Bread can be kept at room temperature, wrapped in plastic, for up to 4 days.